Reverence wanes in Goa's churches

The former Portuguese colony and now Indian state of Goa’s historical churches are turning into tourist sites rather than places of devotion, with visitors vying to pose for selfies rather than praying.

Dec 05, 2016

By Bosco de Souza Eremita
The former Portuguese colony and now Indian state of Goa’s historical churches are turning into tourist sites rather than places of devotion, with visitors vying to pose for selfies rather than praying.

Father Savio Baretto, rector of the Basilica of Bom Jesus in Old Goa, which houses the remains of the once uncorrupted body of St. Francis Xavier, has been forced to issue a dress code.

"Tourists were coming dressed in skimpy outfits. That has been curbed to a large extent now," Father Baretto told ucanews.com.

However, the ban has been difficult to administer.  Initially, tourists were turned away but they were later offered shawls which were either not returned, became soiled, or left unattended in washrooms.

"Now we don't offer shawls but in extreme cases we tell them to come back properly dressed," Father Barreto said. However, church officials view most tourists with sympathy "since they come from distant places."

The rector said that thousands of tourists visit the basilica, a 16th century building and UNESCO World Heritage Site but "it has become extremely difficult to manage the crowds" due to a lack of volunteers and a failure by the government to provide adequate infrastructure.

A volunteer, who wanted to withhold their name, at the doorway said that domestic tourists, especially from northern India were more carefree in their clothing compared to foreign visitors.

Horatious Dias, a Goan Catholic, is unapologetic for the strict security and dress codes. "If Hindu temple authorities can be stringent on maintaining decorum and security, why shouldn’t we?" he said.  

He remembered a visit he made to a famous temple in Rajasthan. "My wife preferred not to come after she was asked to leave her handbag and valuables outside. We were subjected to serpentine queues and so much fuss. But in Old Goa the crowds come as if they are going to some kind of open exhibition," he said.

Some Goans from overseas attend Mass wearing T-shirts, shorts and sneakers, arguing that God does not care about dress but only people's hearts. "But this is skewed logic. Why don’t they attend weddings in shorts and prefer tuxedos instead? The Sunday service is an invitation for a meal with the King of Kings," he said.

Goa, a former Portuguese colony on the western Indian coast is a famous tourist spot, famed for its palm-fringed beaches and 16th century churches. Last year 5.2 million tourists visited Goa, the majority, 4.7 million, were domestic crowds, according to the state government.

The colonizers used Goa, a Portuguese enclave from 1510 to 1961, as a political and missionary springboard for activities in Asia. Goa now has about 300 heritage churches with numerous Christian art pieces in churches and chapels.

Centuries of evangelization efforts have converted thousands of local people but both Hindus and Christians share a common ancestry.

Christians, mostly Catholics, form 25 percent of the state's 1.8 million people.

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